Whirlpool Washer Stuck on Drain Cycle? How to Fix the "Constant Draining" I

Whirlpool Washer Stuck on Drain Cycle? How to Fix the "Constant Draining" Issue

Affects: Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, and Inglis Top Load Washers

If your top-load washer won't start and the drain pump runs continuously—even when the machine is turned off—you are facing a very common (and frustrating) electronic failure. This issue often makes the washer feel like it’s "possessed," as it refuses to fill or wash, staying stuck in a permanent drain loop.

The Quick Verdict: This is usually caused by a failure in the pressure sensor system on the main control board. While many sources suggest buying a new $300-$400 board, there is a way to repair the board for a fraction of the cost.

Symptoms of the "Drain Loop" Failure

• The drain pump starts running the second the machine is plugged in.

• The "Sensing" or "Wash" lights may flash, but the machine won't fill with water.

• The lid may remain locked or refuse to engage the cycle.

• Error Codes: You might see code F3E1 (Pressure Sensor Fault) in diagnostic mode.

3 DIY Tips to Try Before Calling a Pro

Before assuming the electronics are fried, try these common DIY "resets" found online. Sometimes, a simple sensor calibration can clear the glitch.

1. The Hard Power Reset

Unplug the washer from the wall for at least 10 minutes. This allows the capacitors on the control board to fully discharge. Plug it back in and try to start a "Rinse & Spin" cycle.

2. Clear the Pressure Hose

There is a thin clear tube connecting the tub to the control board. If this tube is clogged with suds or debris, the board "thinks" the washer is overflowing.

• Access the control console.

• Find the thin hose and ensure it isn't kinked.

• Technician Tip: Disconnect the hose from the board and blow gently into it to clear any obstructions in the tub-end.

3. Re-Calibration Mode

1. With the washer off, turn the dial counter-clockwise one full turn.

2. Turn the dial 3 clicks right, 1 click left, and 1 click right.

3. When the lights flash, turn the dial until only the "Rinse" light is on.

4. Press Start. The machine will run a 2-3 minute test. If it completes, you've successfully reset the sensor.

The "Last Resort": Control Board Replacement vs. Repair

If the tips above don't work, the Pressure Transducer on the control board has likely failed. Most repair companies will tell you that the entire control board (Part #W10448405 or similar) must be replaced.

Here is the problem: A new OEM control board for these models can cost between $250 and $450 plus labor. For many St. John's homeowners, this cost makes them consider throwing away a perfectly good machine.

A Better Way: We Repair the Board!

At Local Solutions, we specialize in component-level repair. Instead of replacing the entire expensive board, we can often repair the specific faulty circuit or sensor.

• Save Money: Repairing the board is significantly cheaper than buying a new one.

• Eco-Friendly: Keep your washer out of the Robin Hood Bay landfill.

• Faster Turnaround: Don’t wait weeks for a backordered part to ship to Newfoundland.

Need Help in St. John’s or the Avalon?

If your Whirlpool, Maytag, or Amana washer is stuck in a drain loop and you aren’t comfortable opening the console, give us a call. We can diagnose the fault and let you know if a board repair is the right move for your machine.